12 

390 
>py 1 



ORANCxE CULTURE. 






THE ORANGE 



"Krom. Seed to Grove." 



By B. M. LELONG, Secretary of the State Board 'of Horticulture. 



EX OFFICIO HORTICULTURAL OFFICER. 




SACRAMENTO: 

STATE OFFICE, ::::::: J. D. young, supt. state prfnttng. 
' 1890. 



•$JS— ^x<^V 



1/ ' ' > ■ 

ORANGE CULTURE. 



THE ORANGE 



F^rom Seed to Grove." 



By B. M. LELONG, Secretary of the State Board of Horticulture. 



EX OFFICIO HORTICULTURAL OFFICER. 




SACRAMENTO: 

STATE OFFICE, : T : : : : : J. D. young, supt. state printing. 

1890. 






i 



Gift. M.S. L^e A. Stvor.g. Au^. 10, 1M2 



I 



STATE BOARD OF HORTICULTURE 



OFFICERS AND MEMBERS. 

ELLWOOD COOPER, President Santa Barbara, 

Commissioner for the Los Angeles District. 

L. W. BUCK, Vice-President ..Vacaville, 

Commissioner for the Napa District. 

S. RUNYOX, Treasurer ..Courtland, 

Commissioner for the Sacramento District. 

J. L. MOSHER, Auditor-- - San Francisco, 

Commissioner for the State at Large. 

FRANK A. KIMBALL National City, 

Commissioner for the State at Large. 

A. F. WHITE - Santa Rosa, 

Commissioner for the Sonoma District. 

FRED. C. MILES Pcnryn, 

Commissioner for the El Dorado District. 

I. H. THOMAS - - - Visalia, 

CskAni^Joilfci' for tlYe Saflt Joaquin !l)istril;t. -.'^tO 

A. BLOCK -- -Santa Clara, 

Commissioner for the San Francisco District. 



EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE. 

J. L. MOSHER, Cliairman. 
ELLWOOD COOPER. FRANK A. KIMBALL. 

B. M. LELONG, Secretary --.- Ex officio Horticultural Officer. 

ALEXANDER CRAW, Quarantine Officer -.E.\ officio Entomologist. 

ELLA F. HALLAHAN Clerk. 

HARRY STANLEY ---- Messenger. 

Office of the Board: 
No. 220 Sutter Street, San Francisco. 



PREFATORY. 



This special bulletin treating exclusively on the culture of the orange 
" from seed to grove," is published in answer to the demand made on 
this Board for information on the subject, for gratuitous distribution at 
the State Citrus Fairs of 1891. 



ORANGE CULTURE. 

By B. M. LELON(i, Secretary State Board of Horticulture, ex officio Horticultural Ofticer. 



THE ORANGE. 



FROM SEED TO GROVE. 



"Whence came this delectable fruit, fit for the gods? What was its 
original history? Was it stolen by some mythological hero from 
Elysium, like the fire by Prometheus?" 



The orange (Citrus aurantium) belongs to the natural order Auranti- 
acese, and. the origin of the different members of this family is extremely 






[A. Compound unifoliate leaf of the orange {Citrus 
aurantium). 1. Point of union, marked hy an articula- 
tion; 2. Petiole, winged on either side; 6. Lamina; 4. 
Flowering branch; 5 and 6. The fruit; 7. Flower com- 
plete; 8. Pistil; 9. Transverse section of ovary.] 



doubtful, having been cultivated from a remote period of antiquity, but 
belongs originally to China and India. 



— 8 — 

The flowers of the sweet orange are white, the leaves lanceolate 
or oblong. The petiole is not so marked or winged as in the bitter 
and sour oranges, but is always present to a greater or less degree. The 
fruit is generally an oblate sphere, of a golden yellow color; when ripe 
it is full of delicate pulp and sweet, refreshing juice. 

The sour orange {Citrus higaradia) does not grow quite so high as the 
sweet orange; has a larger leaf, with a highly winged petiole. The 
flower is larger and more highly perfumed; the fruit is of a red orange 
color; the skin rugged and porous; pulp, yellow; juice, extremely bitter. 

The bitter orange {Citrus bergamia) is of a dwarf habit; the flowers 
are small, white, and highly scented; leaves, elongated, acute — the 
underside quite pale; the petiole is more or less winged; fruit, pale 
yellow; pulp, bitter. 

There are many varieties of sour and of bitter oranges — some bearing 
large fruits, the majority of which are worthless, and some bearing 
small fruit, which is valuable for the manufacture of essence of orange 
and essential oils. The peel of the bitter orange is used in medicine as 
an aromatic tonic, and the fruit is also used in making marmalade and 
preserves. Many of these are grown in Europe for the essential oil they 
contain, from which is made a substance known as bergamot camphor. 

II. 

PROPAGATION. 

The Seed. — The seed of the orange has seldom been known to produce 
fruit equal to that of the parent tree. HoAvever, it comes truer to seed 
than most fruits. 

Collecting the Seed. — The fruit is piled into heaps or put into barrels 
to rot. When it has decayed so that it will break into many pieces 
when handled, it is crushed in a tub or barrel and the seed is washed 
out. A coarse sieve is used; the soft substance of the fruit will pass 
through the wires, leaving the seed in the sieve. This operation is 
carried on in a place where water can be used freely, as considerable is 
required to do the work properly. 

Keeping the Seed. — To insure best results, the seed of the orange should 
not be allowed to dry after being taken from the fruit. If not ready to 
plant them, they should be put in moist sand. In this way they can 
be kept until everything is prepared. 

How to Put the Seed in Sand. — Take a shallow box, say five inches 
deep and not more than thirty inches square; fill it half full of moist 
sand, then put the seed on top, about two inches deep, and throw on the 
top of the seed considerable sand and mix it together with the hands. 
This is done so that the sand will stick to the seeds and prevent them 
adhering to each other. Then fill up the box with sand and let them 
remain until they are to be planted. The boxes can be stacked one 
upon the other. 

Taking the Seed out of the Sand. — The seed-bed having been prepared, 
have a coarse sieve and take the top box and dump its contents into the 
sieve. This must be done with care, so as not to bruise the seed. Then 
shake the sieve, the sand will pass through, leavmg the seed in the 
sieve. 



— 9 — 

The Seed-Bed. — The seed-bed should be inclosed with boards eighteen 
or twenty inches wide, set on edge, about four or six feet apart. The 
bottom should be floored, so as to prevent gophers and ground moles 
from entering the seed-bed. Laths are nailed on top, leaving a space of 
one half inch between them, to protect the seed from being scratched 
up by the birds. A covering of thin muslin is put on top of the laths 
to protect the young plants from being scorched by the sun. If the 
weather be cloudy, it is well that the covering be removed to allow the 
bed to get warm. It is better to plant the seed thickly and broadcast; 
as all plants are to be removed, it does not matter how thick they come 
up. The seeds should be covered with fine, rich soil, from one to two 
inches. 

Time of Planting the Seed. — Planting the seed very early, as in Janu- 
ary and February, does not give good results, because it is entirely too 
early; the seed generally decays, as the time for it to germinate is not 
till spring. March, April, and even May, are the best months to plant 
the seed, as the ground is then warm and all danger of frost is over. 
The seed-bed should be kept moist, but not too w^et. 

Transplanting. — In one year the plants will be large enough to be 
transplanted in nursery form. The plants should be sorted; the very 
small and delicate ones should be planted in shallow boxes by them- 
selves, and kept another year; being so small and delicate, they are gen- 
erally scorched by the sun when planted in the open ground, and remain 
small in the nursery. 

Distance of Nursery Roivs. — The rows should be far enough apart to 
admit a cultivator between them. Grave mistakes are often made in 
setting them less than four feet apart, as after being budded many buds 
are knocked off in cultivating by the horse or the traces rubbing against 
them. Preference is given to rows when set five or six feet apart. This 
Avill give ample room for cultivation; and also, when in digging up trees, 
a small, narrow sled can be run in to haul them to the head of the rows 
Avithout rubbing against the nursery stock. 

Distance in Nursery Roxos. — Planting close together in the rows will 
tend to make feeble and slender trees. If it is not intended to sack the 
trees when they are to be transplanted, then the plants can be set from 
eight to twelve inches apart, and they will make strong and thrifty 
stocks; but if it is intended to sack them this is too close. They should 
be at least eighteen inches apart; this will give the digger enough space 
to take up trees between others. It also has the advantage that the roots 
are not cut too short, which is apt to be the case when they are planted 
close together. 

Trimming the Stock. — The plants should not be trimmed until at least 
one year; after planting they should be left to grow at will the first 
year. If the plants are trimmed when too young, they will make 
slender and feeble stock. 

In the following spring, as early as possible, say in February, the 
plants are trimmed, leaving a clear stock. All cuts should be made close, 
so that they may soon heal over. The brush is then gathered and 
burned. As the ground becomes packed by the trimmers, it should be 
loosened by running a cultivator between the rows. 



— 10 — 

III. 

BUDDING. 

Spring Budding. — Generally, in the months of March and April, as 
soon as the trees begin to put forth and the sap flows freely, it is then 
the time to bud citrus trees. Everything should be prepared; no time 
should be lost, as the buds first inserted will sometimes start in less 
than three weeks with vigor, and by summer will have a large and 
thrifty top. The buds should be looked over at least ten days after they 
are inserted, and all those that show signs of dying should be rebudded, 
in order to give them an early start, and that they may grow more 
even with those first budded. 

Summer Budding. — Summer budding is generally done in June and 
July. It is not considered as good as early spring budding, because the 
buds do not start even ; and as the greater portion of them start late, 
their growth is so tender by the time winter sets in that, if they pass 
through it, they become prematurely hardened by the cold weather, which 
sometimes causes the tree to become stunted. 

Fall Budding. — Fall budding is generally performed during the 
months of September, October, and sometimes as late as November. 
After the strings have been removed they are left to pass the winter in 
dormant bud, to be started in the spring. 

IV. 

STAKTING AND TRAINING THE BUDS. 

Cutting off the Tops. — In the spring, as the nursery trees swell very 
fast, three weeks is long enough for the strings to remain on them; but 
the tops should not be cut off then. The strings should be removed, 
the nursery irrigated and cultivated. This will force new growth, and 
the tops should then be cut back from four to eight inches above the 
bud. After the bud has grown about six inches or more it is tied to the 
stock. When the bud has become stocky and able to support itself, 
what remains of the top is then cut away. The cut should be made 
smooth and painted with rubber paint. This helps the wound in heal- 
ing over, and protects the stock from the action of the atmosphere. 
Those that have been left to lie dormant through the winter should 
be cut back in the spring to allow the buds to start, just as soon as 
the trees begin to show signs of growth. Great care should be used in 
the cutting of the tops, that it be done at the proper time, , and that 
they be not cut so near the bud as to endanger it. A little brush should 
be allowed to remain to protect the stock, which is removed after the 
buds have started. 

Starting the Bud. — When the stocks put forth in the spring the buds 
generally start also, and the suckers being very tender, are removed by 
hand (thumb pruning), breaking at the touch. Cutting them with a 
sharjj knife has the advantage that no others will grow where so cut, 
and the cut being made clean will give the tree a smooth body, and as 
the tree grows very little suckering will be required. When the suckers 
become strong and are removed by rubbing with the hand, the trunks 
generally become rough and the suckering much greater. 



— 11 



PLANTING. 



Mlien to Plant. — Citrus trees are transplanted at various seasons, pref- 
erence being given to one of its dormant periods occurring during the 
year. 

Trees transplanted in the winter, when the ground is cold, will remain 
until spring without growing; therefore, it is better not to transplant 
citrus trees until the ground begins to get warm. The nearer an orange 
tree is to starting new growth, the greater its strength and root power, 
and this is the best time for transplanting; also, after they have made 
their first growth and before starting the second time in spring. 

Balling System. — A narrow trench is made along the row and within 
six inches of the tree, the tap-root is cut about eighteen inches or so deep; 
then with a spade a round, oblong ball is cut, leaving in it the tree. The 
spade should be very sharjD, or in cutting the roots the jar will break 
the ball. Pruning shears are used in cutting large roots. When trees 
are taken up with a sound ball of earth the leaves will hardly wilt. 

Puddling System. — Puddling is practiced where the soil is so loose that 
sacking is rendered impossible. Many prefer this system to any other, 
as it gives the trees larger and more roots; and where all due precautions 
are taken, puddling is the best system, and considerable expense is 
saved. 

The Puddle. — A hole is made in the ground and filled half full of 
water, then soil is thrown into it and worked Avith a hoe, which forms 
the puddle. The puddle should be thin enough, so that when the roots 
of trees are put into it, it will stick to them, at the same time wetting 
every part thoroughly. The trees are carefully taken up; the soil 
is shaken from the roots and they are immediately dijDped into the 
mud, or puddle. They are then placed on wet straw in a wagon. 
A large canvas, or covering, is placed over the wagon to prevent the 
sun from drying the roots, as the roots should not be exposed to tlie 
sun, even if only for a few minutes. The wagon is then driven to the 
field where the holes were dug. The driver hands the trees, one at a 
time, and the planter holds the trees in position while his men fill it up 
with dirt, first throwing in the moistest; the planter presses the soil 
very lightly, and goes to the next one. The tree having been set, a basin 
is made around it, and a couple of buckets of water poured into the 
basin; this will settle the soil and keep the tree fresh until water can 
be run down the rows in furrows. 

Extending the Roots. — It is a common practice among growers to place 
the tree in the hole, fill it up with soil, and then tramp it. As the roots 
are covered with thick mud they will stick together, and if the tree grows 
it will not do as well as when the roots are extended with care. This is 
very simple. The hole is half filled with earth so as to form a mound; 
the shovel handle is driven down in the center, and on being withdrawn 
a deep hole is left, sufficiently large and deep to admit the tap-root of 
the tree; then the lateral roots are spread over the mound, as shown in 
the illustration (Fig. 1), and the soil is lightly pressed. Heavy tramp- 
ing is not necessary, g,s the water settles the dirt and keeps the roots in 
place. As soon as the water in the basin has disappeared, the liasin is 
covered with loose soil; this will prevent evaporation, and also the tree 



— 12 — 

from leaning over. Trees planted with these precautions make the best 
growth and become the most thrifty. 




Topping the Trees. — When a tree is taken from the nursery the tops 
should be cut back; the branches should be so cut that in starting they 
will form a fine-shaped head. This is done because evaporation from 
the leaves is rapid, and in many cases, where the tops are left on, causes 
the circulation of the trees to dry, and also the bark will shrivel before 
the roots have assumed their natural functions. 

VI. 

PLANTING SYSTEMS AND SOIL. 

The planting systems most common in use are the square, triangular, 
and quincunx. The square system is most generally adopted, being 
the most simple. In this, the orchard is laid off in lines crossing 
each other at right angles, with equal intervals of space, and a tree 
planted at each crossing of the lines. 

Soil for Orange Trees. — An orange tree should never be planted on 
heavy, low ground, or on low, damp ground where water can be reached 
within a few feet of the surface, and never on black, adobe soil; -they will 
always be troubled with gum disease, and will also be nipped by frosts 
every year. A rich, deep, porous soil is absolutely necessary to give the 
trees a vigorous growth. Trees on heavy adobe or poor soil become 
stunted and will not produce fine fruit, and never become profitable 
bearers. 

Preparation of the Soil. — The land should be thoroughly worked 
through the winter and prepared to be planted in the spring, when it 
becomes warm; also, all weeds and stubble plowed under will be decom- 
posed and serve as a fertilizer to the orchard. The thorough working 
of ttie soil liberates crude gases and changes the nutritive principles to 
a form more readily assimilated by the tree. 

VII. 

VARIETIES. 

The most profitable varieties grown in this State are the following, 
and their prominence is about in the order named: 



10 

Washington Navel. — Fruit large, solid, and heavy; skin smooth and of 
a very fine texture; very juicy, highly flavored, with melting pulp; 
seedless; tree a good and prolific bearer, medium thorny, a rapid grower, 
although it does not attain a very large size; commences to bear as early 
as one year old from the bud; ripens early. Imported from Bahia, Brazil. 

Valencia Late. — This orange has proved itself one of the most profit- 
able to grow. It ripens in May and June, when other varieties are out 
of the market. Fruit large, thin skin, pale yellow, firm, oblong, and 
heavy, very few seeds. An excellent shipper; tree large, and prolific 
bearer. Imported from England. 

Joppa. — This is a remarkable orange, as it can be marketed early and 
yet able to remain on the trees till July, without deterioration in qual- 
ity, and for this reason is suitable for all sections. Fruit large (see 
illustration), firm, nearly seedless, thin rind, pulp very fine, sweet and 
juicy, and of very deep red color; tree thornless, upright, and vigorous 
grower, suitable for standard purposes. Imported from Palestine. 

Mediterranean Siveet. — Fruit medium to large, pulp and skin of very 
fine texture, very solid, and few seeds; color deep orange; ripens late; 
tree thornless, of a dwarf habit, inclined to overbear. Imported from 
the Mediterranean. 

Maltese Blood. — Fruit medium, oval, texture and flavor very fine, pulp 
marked vinous red, very few seeds; fruit shows red color on surface; tree 
dwarf, thornless. Imported from Mediterranean. 

Paper Rind St. Michael. — Fruit small, round, very firm, and juicy; 
pale thin skin; grows very uniform, ripens late, and keeps well on the 
tree; does not drop when mature; tree dwarf, medium, thorny, a good 
and prolific bearer. Imported from the Azores. 

Azorean St. Michael. — Fruit medium to large, and solid; pulp fine and 
melting; medium thin rind; flattened, few seeds; ripens early, and keeps 
well on the tree; a rapid grower and a prolific bearer; is a large tree, 
and is recommended for standard purposes. Imported from the Azores. 

WolfskiWs Best. — Fruit of excellent quality, somewhat flattened, color 
deep orange-red, fine grain and pulp; ripens early. This orange is of 
home origin. The advantage it has over foreign varieties is that the tree 
is very hardy, and can be planted in localities where the temperature 
gets so low as to prevent them from thriving; it wall also make a larger 
tree. 

Konah. — A California seedling, raised from seed grown on Konah 
Island; fruit large; rough and thick skin; tree very thorny; ripens early. 

Rio. — Fruit and tree resemble the Mediterranean Sweet, but the fruit 
is much larger, has a thicker skin; ripens late; very seldom can the 
entire crop be picked from the tree, as it does not ripen even; green 
oranges are found on the trees throughout the summer; tree thornless, 
of a dwarf habit. Imported from the Mediterranean. 

Tangierine, or Kid Glove. — Fruit deep red, small, very sweet, and 
aromatic; when ripe the rind is very easily detached; tree dwarf, 
very uniform in shape, of a weeping habit. 

King. — A late orange, ripening in May and June; averages below 
medium in size; very rough rind, segments cleave when fully ripe; very 
highly flavored. Imported from China. 

Satsunia. — Fruit small, flattened; rind very easily detached; of 
exceedingly fine textifre, sweet, and seedless; tree dwarf, and very hardy. 
Best suited for gardens. 



— 14 — 

Kumquat. — Fruit is edible whole (rind and all), very small, oblong, 
or olive shaped; rind thick, yellow, smooth, sweet scented; very little 
pulp, and contains many seeds; tree a bush, and very prolific. Best 
suited for gardens or home plots. 

ORNAMENTAL. 

Mandarin. — Tree very ornamental; fruit very red, flattened at the 
poles, having an outgrowth at the blossom end. 

Pomelo (syn. Grape Fruit). — A variety of shaddock; fruit very large, 
from two to five pounds each, pale yellow, resembling the citron; skin 
smooth; pulp sub-acid. 

ShaddocJc. — Tree inclined to be dwarf; fruit very large, with smooth 
skin, pale yellow, and very glossy; the rind is very thick and spongy, 
and very bitter; ornamental only. 

Bouquet. — Fruit very bitter. The flowers have a commercial value, 
as they are very large and fragrant. 

Bergamot. — Ornamental only; fruit large and very rough, flattened. 
Is grown for the bloom. 

Myrtle Leaf. — Ornamental only; tree very dwarf; foliage densely 
packed together; small leaf, the shape of the myrtle; fruit bright red, 
and very bitter. 

Variegated Orange. — Ornamental only; tree dwarf; leaf variegated, 
with white margin and green center; very glossy; stem white and 
green; fruit striped with white, and very bitter. 

VIII. 

PRUNING. 

In pruning a tree, especially when allowed to grow for several years 
without it, considerable work and skill is required. The hot sun should 




Fig. 2. 

not be allowed to enter and scorch the bark, which would also cause the 
fine brush to die, and a diseased tree is sure to be the result. The advice 



— 15 — 

po often given, " that the tree be opened so as to allow plenty of air and 
sun heat to enter," does not hold good with the orange. Fig. 2 shows 
how a tree is left after the brush that protects the trunk and branches 
is removed. The trunk and inside growth is left exposed to the sun. 

I have often seen trees with one side of the trunk scorched and 
the bark dead, after the brush that protected it from the sun had ])een 
removed. 

Fig. 3 illustrates a high-trained tree of the same age. 




In this the lower limbs have been removed, leaving a clean stock, so 
as to allow the horse in cultivating to pass under its branches and the 
cultivator to work the ground close to the trunk. 




Fig. 4 illustrates a low-trained tree of the same age as Figs. 2 and 3. 
in this the lower limbS have been allowed to remain to protect its trunk 
and inner growth. 



— 16 — 

The inside of the tree is kept clear of all dead wood, and the growth 
on the outside is allowed to become uniform. The lower foliage sup- 
ports that above it, and so supports its fruit without the aid of props. 

When trees are trained low the shade of the branches keeps the 
ground moist, and in case of excessive heat, or scarcity of water, will 
not suffer; whereas, the heat causes the leaves of high-trained trees to 
curl, and if not watered at the proper time the growth of the fruit 
becomes checked. Low-trained trees become better balanced, vigorous, 
health}^, and more productive than when trained high, and the fruit is 
much more easily and cheaply gathered. 

IX. 

THE ORANGE CROP, GATHERING, ETC. 

Picking. — The tree should never be picked clean; only the ripe fruit 
should first be picked, thus lightening up the trees. The clean, bright 
colored, smooth, fine skin, firm oranges will always command the best 
prices. Fruit should be handled with care. It is better to (clip) stem 
cut than to pull the orange, as in pulling there is danger of tearing the 
skin. The fruit should not be packed fresh from the tree, as when 
packed it will heat and sweat in the boxes at an ordinary temperature, 
and, as the entire contents in the box becomes damp, there is great 
danger from rot and decay. The fruit should be picked in boxes and 
left in the packing house three or four days, to allow the rind of the 
fruit to shrink and to lose the surplus moisture in the rind. Unless 
the weather is very cool they go through a natural sweat, in which the 
surplus moisture escapes and the rind becomes tough and pliable; many 
unseen imperfections, such as slight bruises, etc., will develop into spots, 
necessitating a more careful selection of the perfect fruit for market. 

AN ORANGE BOX. 

The standard size of an orange box is twelve inches by twelve by 
twenty-six and a half, outside measurement, with a partition in the 
middle. 

Standard Counts. 

The standard counts and all the important grades can be more readily 
understood in the following plans: 

























































































































1. Packing 96 to the box: four layers, 2. Packing 100 to the box; five layers, 
alternating, as in A (first layer) and B alternating, as in A (first layer) and B 
(second layer). (second layer). 



17 — 
















































































































































B 

































































































































B 



3. Parkiiifi; 112 to the box; four layers, 4. Packing 126 to the box; five laj^ers, 
alternating, as in A (first layer) and B alternating, as in A (first layer) and B 



(second laj'er) 



(second layer). 




































































































5. Packing 128 to the box; four uniform 
layers. 




























A B 

6. Packing 140 to the box ; five layers, 
alternating, as in A (first layer) arid B 
(second layer). 



























o 

























































7. Packing 146 to the box ; four layers as 
in A, and one layer (the second) as In B. 












0-0 





















A B 

8. Packing 150 to the box; five layers, 
alternating, as in A (first layer) and B 
(second layer). 


































A 



B 



9. Packing 176 to the box; first, third, 


































A 



B 



10. Packing 280 to the box; five layers. 



and filth layers as in A, and second and alternating, as in A (first layer) and B 



fourth layers as in B 



(second layer). 



0000 00000 


ooooooooo 





















A B- 

11. Packing 226 to the dox ; five layers, 

















































































































































B 



Six layers, 18 in a layer. A, first layer; 



alternating, as in A (first layer) and 1> B, second layer. 

(second layer). ' The 226 size will pack this size nicelv it 

is 216, and packed as sliown. ' ' 

'2» 



— 18 — 

In packing, it will be to the best advantage to have the end of the box 
toward the packer, and commence a box of 100, 126, 150, 176, and 200 
with 3 in the first row, 2 in the next, and so on, until you have one layer; 
then there is a place for each orange. The 112 size goes 4 and 3 in a 
row, the 216 size 3 and 3 in a row, the 252 size 4 and 3 in a row (a 
smaller size may be packed — the 294 size — same as the 252 size, putting 
in one more layer.) There should be a size smaller than the 252 size 
in the sizer to keep the small oranges out, for if the small ones go in the 
252 size they will not pack tight enough. 































































































































































































A B 

12. Packing 250 to the box ; five uniform 
layers. 



A B 

13. Packing 252 to the box; six layers, 
alternating, as in A (first layer) arid B 
(second layer). 



The arrangement which brings one orange directly on top of another, 
as in the 128, 146, and 250 sizes (Diagrams 5, 7, and 12), instead of 
breaking joints, as in the other plans of layering shown, have been dis- 
carded by the best packers. It is best to pack oranges upon the dove- 
tail plan, which enables packers to get more oranges in the box and so 
braced against each other as to be immovable. 



X 



FERTILIZERS. 

Barnyard and sheep manure are the fertilizers mostly employed in 
the orange orchards in California. They have, to a certain extent, all 
the essential elements for plant food, but lacking in proportions accord- 
ing to conditions. In fertilizers bulk is not what is necessary, but 
instead, the proper elements as fertilizers in a concentrated form. Fer- 
tilizers in some form can be made to last, like barnyard and sheep 
manure, and feed several successive crops with a single application. 
For instance, in ashes and bone we have all the elements for a complete 
fertilizer, when all that is required is to apply an extra quantity of 
ashes and a portion of the bone in a coarse state. Ashes are always 
■enduring in their effect, and the coarse bone will be several years in 
decaying and setting free nitrogen and phosphoric acid. One of the 
three elements, nitrogen, potash, or phosphoric acid, of which the soil 
has the least, will alwaj'S be the measure of the crop. A hundred 
pounds of potash applied would not give a larger yield than five pounds 
(and so of the other two elements) if there is not a proportionate 
increase of the other elements. The right way is to make the most and 
best manure that is practicable upon the orchard, and piece out with such 
commercial fertilizers as experiments and experience prove profitable. 
Artificial fertilizers are of course much more cheaply transported, and, 
unlike barnyard or sheep manure, do not carry with them seeds of weeds 



— 1[) — 

into the soil, and as they contain the fertilizing elements in so condensed 
a form, the Avhole handling of them becomes much cheaper. 

Artificial fertilizers should be applied a little at a time and often. 
Nitrogen tends to promote leaf growth, and if the bone in the soil does 
not all decompose in the first year the nitrogen contained in it goes over 
with it and is not lost. If but one of the elements be used it should by 
all means be bone, and the finer the bone and the finer and drier the fer- 
tilizer, the more valuable it is. When the animal matter in bone decays, 
the phosphoric acid in the bone is in a reversed condition. 

XI. 

DISEASES. 

Gum Disease {^'■Mal de goma^^). — This disease is first detected on the 
trunk close to the ground, and is a yellow, gum-like substance which 
forms on the outside of the bark. It is an exudation of the sap of the 
tree, which breaks through the bark and forms a gum. The disease is 
under the bark, and also penetrates into the inner bark and into the 
wood. 

Remedy. — There is but one eff"ectual remedy, i. c, cutting away the 
bark from where the gum oozes, and the infected parts gouged out. If, 
on the following day, the gum is still running, more of the wood must 
be gouged out until every particle of the disease is removed. Then the 
wound is covered with rubber paint, or grafting wax, to prevent the 
action of the atmosphere from cracking the wood left exposed. 



"An orange grove charms the eye, satisfies the smell, gratifies the 
taste, and serves both luxury and art." 

In the preparation of this bulletin I have devoted myself to the close 
observations of the culture of the orange from a commercial standpoint, 
and to bring about all the practical points bearing on its culture from 
'seed to grove." 





WASHINGTON NAVEL, 



eiLts imw4 LiBcnrr pftiNTiiie co iir 




A NEW ORANGE. THE " JOPPA' 



^••\ 



^ 




.^ijeg' 



cc 

H 
Q 

LL) Q 
I- Q- 

i 
a 

X 



C/D 

LlI 

h- 
C/D 
>- 
CO 

C5 



J*-%!!,i". 




-^ 




QC 
< 

H 
O 



CO 



CO 



o 



o 



o 



00 



X 

UJ 



■^ 



